The star of the southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape sets a worldwide standard for luscious, powerful reds. (The name, which translates as “The New Castle of the Pope,” refers to the time in the 1300’s when the Roman popes decamped from the Vatican to Avignon, due to political unrest.) To the east, across the Ouvèz river and higher up, lies the smaller appellation Gigondas, divided in two by the craggy Dentelles de Montmirail, a small mountain chain.
Gigondas offers much of the same complexity and richness as Châteauneuf du Pape but at a more modest price, as do — if one hunts carefully — the up-and-coming appellations of Lirac and Vacqueyras. All these wines are driven principally by the sultry allure of Grenache, though they are typically blends involving a number of other grapes as well, principally Syrah and Mourvèdre.
The character of the entire southern Rhône is defined by its warm climate and glorious Mediterranean sunshine, channeled by Grenache into opulent, silky-smooth reds, though often with underlying power and tannic muscle. The best can age for decades, but have the virtue of being seductive on release as well.
2021 Domaine la Monardière Les 2 Monardes Vacqueyras ($30)
Food & Wine / LA MONARDIÈRE
The young and extremely talented Damien Vache is the hand behind this organically farmed blend of Grenache and Syrah. It’s peppery and luscious, full of wild herb notes.
2021 Domaine de la Mordorée La Dame Rousse Lirac ($30)
Food & Wine / Domaine de la Mordorée
Earthy, dark, and savory, this red from mother-and-daughter team Madeleine and Ambre Delorme is a testimony to the potential of the red wines of Lirac, just west of Châteauneuf-du-Pape.
2020 Château de Montmirail Beauchamp Gigondas ($35)
Food & Wine / Château de Montmirail
From nearly 60 acres of vines, the Archimbaud family produces a potent expression of the appellation: gamey and intense, with dark berry and wild herb flavors.
2019 E. Guigal Gigondas ($35)
Food & Wine / E. Guigal
“There’s a trend today for Gigondas to become ‘Châteauneuf-du-Pape light,’” Philippe Guigal noted the last time he came to the Food & Wine offices. “We want Gigondas to stay a bit more rustic, a bit more powerful, a bit gritty. So we always have at least one-third Mourvedre in our Gigondas. It brings the spice, the weight, the rusticity, and a kind of lacquer-like savoriness.” That’s a spot-on assessment of the character of this brooding red; which only makes sense, coming from the man who made it.
2019 Montirius Terre des AÎnés Gigondas ($45)
Food & Wine / Domaine Montirius
Savory and full of the scent of garrigue (the wild herbs that grow on the hillsides in the Rhône), this raspberry-inflected red feels slightly rustic in the best possible way. Bring on the cassoulet.
2021 Domaine des Bosquets Gigondas ($55)
Food & Wine / Domaine des Bosquets
Grapevines were first recorded at this site as far back as 1376. Over the years, it’s changed hands many times, but today this floral, peppery red is made by the talented Julien Bréchet. With each sip it reveals more and more complexity; if you wanted to cellar a few bottles of top-notch Gigondas for drinking in 10 years, this would be a great choice.
2021 Domaine Santa Duc Habemus Papam Châteauneuf-du-Pape ($60)
Food & Wine / Domaine Santa Duc
This is one hell of a Châteauneuf: savory, seductive, full of rich fruit, ending on peppery tannins. Yves and Benjamin Gras are Rhône Valley stars for good reason (don’t miss their wines from Gigondas either, which are across-the-board impressive, particularly the white-peppery Les Hautes Garrigues cuvée).
2022 Château de Saint Cosme Gigondas ($65)
Food & Wine / Château de Saint Cosme
Fifteenth-generation vintner Louis Barruol makes some of the best Gigondas you can find. With its roses-and-white-pepper aroma, deep red-fruit flavors, and black tea notes, this is a stellar Rhône red.
2021 M. Chapoutier Barbe Rac Châteauneuf-du-Pape ($130)
Food & Wine / M. CHAPOUTIER
From his base in Tain-L’Hermitage, Michel Chapoutier makes excellent wine from appellations throughout the Rhône valley. His top Châteauneuf, from a single parcel of 90+ year old vines, is loaded with sweet red berry and cherry flavors, bolstered by waves of silky tannins.
