Black designers are the blueprint for American fashion. From 20th-century giants like Patrick Kelly and Ann Lowe to modern-day icons like Olivier Rousteing and Telfar Clemens, Black fashion designers have uniquely shaped the course of fashion history.
Despite facing pervasive racism and lack of opportunities, it is undeniable that Black designers’ heritage has been crucial in developing the modern fashion lexicon, as well as setting off countless trends, from Victorian bustles to enhance the derrière of 19th-century socialites to today’s tooth gems and elevated streetwear. It’s safe to say that fashion would not be what it is without the contributions of the Black community.
From top-tier creative directors to innovative handbag designs, ahead are 12 Black fashion designers to know, celebrate, and support now and forever.
Ann Lowe
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While she may not be a household name, Ann Lowe is one of the most influential American designers as she created former First Lady Jacqueline Kennedy’s silk taffeta wedding gown. The first African-American designer to rise to prominent fame, Lowe made her mark by dressing debutantes and high-society women from the 1920s to the 1960s. Although Lowe did not get credit for her work, she undoubtedly set fashion trends for decades.
Willi Smith
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Considered the inventor of streetwear, Willi Smith married affordable clothing and luxury, shifting the trajectory of American fashion during the 20th century. Smith founded his iconic line WilliWear Ltd. in 1976 and amassed over $25 million in sales by 1986, demonstrating Smith’s popularity as his designs embodied a joyful and confident aura.
Patrick Kelly
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Patrick Kelly broke barriers as the first American to be accepted to the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode, the governing body of the French fashion industry. The Mississippi-born, Paris-based queer designer infused humor into his designs, creating a spiral bra top and banana skirt Lady Gaga would wear in an instant. With his infectious and endlessly creative spirit, Kelly reimagined a new avant-garde.
Dapper Dan
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What would hip-hop be without Dapper Dan? The logomania icon is known for creating custom clothes for the likes of Salt-N-Pepa and LL Cool J, influencing the wardrobes of millions of music-obsessed teenagers. The Harlem native also popularized logomania, after he started making clothes using logos from luxury fashion houses like Gucci and Louis Vuitton. Decades later, he went on to collaborate with Gucci after the closing of his original boutique, demonstrating his resilience and ingenuity.
House of Aama
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Created by mother-daughter duo Rebecca Henry and Akua Shabaka, House of Aama proves talent is generational as the brand pays homage to the Black experience through decadent and dynamic clothing. Founded in 2015, House of Aama specializes in ethereal, frilled dresses nodding to southern belles, alongside thoughtfully tailored outerwear that points to a hard-earned heritage.
Telfar Clemens
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With his innovative Shopping Bag design and Bag Security Program, Telfar Clemens revolutionized the luxury handbag space. Credited with creating a modern-day It Bag, the Brooklyn-based designer sought to make the finer things more accessible to all by offering the utilitarian vegan leather silhouette at an affordable price. His waitlist-worthy bag has since evolved into duffels as well as apparel, cementing Clemens’ status as a streetwear savant.
LaQuan Smith
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Hailed by Julia Fox and Beyoncé, LaQuan Smith is known for his bold designs, which evoke confidence and sensuality that one can only muster when wearing his skin-bearing garments. The Queens native inherited his love for fashion as his grandmother gave him a sewing machine. After facing rejections from several New York fashion schools, the Queens native preserved and started his brand at the tender age of 21. LaQuan Smith’s commitment paid off as he is now famous for his seductive and head-turning apparel.
Virgil Abloh
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There is no measuring the impact Virgil Abloh had on the fashion industry. The Illinois-born designer made history when he became the first African American artistic director Louis Vuitton appointed. His own label Off-White quickly became one of the most coveted and highly worn labels to date, garnering support from Bella Hadi, Naomi Campbell, and Serena Williams. Before his passing in 2021, Abloh also made it a point to mentor emerging designers through his Post-Modern Scholarship Fund, furthering his legacy.
Sami Miro
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California-based designer Sami Miro pays homage to her less-than-glamorous roots with her ethically produced line Sami Miro Vintage. Having been made fun of for wearing second-hand clothes as a teen, Miro used her imagination to create otherworldly designs from deadstock fabric. For the 2024 Paris Olympics, Miro also created a bespoke jacket for the Women’s Olympic Gymnastics team in partnership with Nike, making her one to watch.
Christopher John Rogers
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With his uber-saturated color palette and bountiful dresses, Christopher John Rogers is a bright beacon in the fashion industry, having dressed former First Lady Michelle Obama. Marrying his vivacious Baton Rouge roots with a slick Brooklyn attitude, Rogers’ designs earned him the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund Award in 2019.
Olivier Rousteing
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Fashion entered a new era when Olivier Rousteing took the reins at Balmain and became the youngest creative director in Paris at 24 years of age since Yves Saint Laurent. Born as an orphan, the impeccably refined designer’s story is truly one of rags to riches as he worked his way up from a designer at Roberto Cavalli to leading one of France’s most iconic luxury fashion houses.
Tia Adeola
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Nigerian-born designer Tia Adeola is a rising star, reimagining fashion through a historical lens that centers on people of color. Driven by an entrepreneurial and academic spirit, Adeola created her namesake brand in her dorm room and now gets to see her garments worn by SZA and Dua Lipa, proving talent has no age limit.
