When I arrive in Malta, the streets of Valette are alive with an energy that can only be explained as magical — lined with tables, each topped with tina (fig) and Aperol Spritzes, amid live music, laughter, and the smell of rabbit stew in the air — all with Malta’s stunning limestone buildings as a backdrop. The vibe feels… Italian? Portuguese? Greek? Somehow all three, which makes sense, knowing a bit about Malta’s history; the European archipelago has been influenced by various civilizations, including the Phoenicians, Romans, Arabs, Normans, and the Knights of St. John, all of which have left their mark on its architecture, cuisine, and traditions.
I am visiting to dive into Malta’s wine industry, excited to taste what Maltese wine is like, as I have never been lucky enough to try any from this country — soon I’ll understand why.
After fueling up on a traditional English breakfast (a surprise until I learn that Malta was an English colony until 1964), I meet with Josef Bonello, a multi-decade veteran of the wine industry in Malta who was recently named brand ambassador for Wines of Malta and Gozo, a second island of the republic of Malta.
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“The story of our wine is very much that of our people,” says Bonello, as we gear up for a day of walking through muddy soil, learning about Maltese wine culture and, of course, sampling the goods from two of the 12 wineries in the country. “Diversity is the keyword here, gained from millennia of influences from some of the most important cultures in the world that set foot in our country. Bits of their individual influences stuck and melded into our own.”
Bonello explains how, even though the country has almost 3,000 years of winemaking history under its belt, the industry almost didn’t survive. In his new role, he is working with the Malta Tourism Authority to support and acknowledge the value of a small yet mighty winemaking community as part of the attractions that the islands have to offer.
“I focus on bringing the energy of all of our wineries together,” he says. “Towards carving out a space in the wine world for our very own produce … to help us share the personality of our Mediterranean wines and keep striving towards defining our identity even further while celebrating its uniqueness.”
The terroir of Malta creates distinct flavor profiles, Bonello explains, from unique limestone soils, a long growing season, and cooling sea breezes. The Indigenous grapes include Girgentina (white) and Gellewza (red), which he says are respected and well-loved in the country. Girgentina, most likely brought from the Phoenicians, is closely related to Sicilian Inzolia — light in body and aroma, often floral. While this wine has struggled typically with acid, newer techniques have helped breathe new life into this grape. Gellewza, on the other hand, is very red fruit-forward with notes of strawberry and cherry. It’s suited for both still and sparkling wines, however, there is only a small amount of this grape left on the islands.
Marsovin Winery, founded in 1919 and one of the oldest vineyards in Malta, was key to the revitalization of these varietals, embracing traditional winemaking methods and combining them with modern techniques. “The wine culture in Malta is unique because of its blend of local traditions and Mediterranean influences. The island’s small size and rich history mean that winemakers often draw from centuries-old practices that have been passed down through generations,” says Sean Camenzuli, the manager of Marsovin.
The commitment to the grapes, he explains, is about more than just wine; it is about heritage and culture. Losing them to other varieties would have been a blow to Malta’s winemaking industry and a loss of identity. “These varieties have helped us gain recognition for producing wines with unique characteristics and have contributed significantly to the growing wine culture on the island,” says Camenzuli.
Wine regions must thrive to survive, and that includes adaptation and evolution, something the Maltese know plenty about. Bonello explains that because of the soil, ocean, and sun, many other non-native grapes have found themselves quite at home in Malta. Merlot, Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, and Vermentino contribute to the diversity and quality of wines produced in Malta.
COURTESY OF TA’BETTA WINE ESTATES
For example, Ta’ Betta Wine Estates, was established in 2003 with a mission to create premium, small-batch wines that reflect Malta’s unique terroir. But unlike Marsovin, the brand focuses on French grapes to show how Maltese wine can stand shoulder-to-shoulder with international wines.
“French varietals, such as Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Syrah, thrive in Malta’s Mediterranean climate, with its warm summers and limestone-rich soils. We’ve played a role in elevating the perception of Maltese wines, contributing to a growing appreciation for the island’s viticultural heritage,” says Marie Choquet, general manager of Ta’ Betta.
If you’re looking to get your hands on a bottle of Maltese wine, there is one small problem. Malta and Gozo produce roughly 1.5 million bottles of wine per year (to put it in perspective, France produces an estimated 8 billion bottles per year), and a majority of those go to bottle shops and local restaurants. Immediately, I understand why I had never had wine from Malta before — there simply wasn’t enough.
“These volumes allow for only very limited export, which means only one thing: Whoever wishes to discover more about the wines of Malta and Gozo needs to physically visit this wonderfully sun-blessed archipelago right at the very heart of the Mediterranean Sea,” says Bonello.
The wine is at its best when paired with rabbit stew or pastizzi, a traditional Maltese savory pastry, says Camenzuli adding, “Wine tourism in Malta is becoming an increasingly popular way to experience the island’s culture and heritage, but visitors should be prepared to explore a unique blend of historical, cultural, and culinary experiences.The combination of wine, food, and the island’s heritage is what truly makes the Maltese wine experience unforgettable.”
