Pumpkins and squashes herald the start of autumn, when thoughts turn to cooking warming, nourishing food. This is when these versatile ingredients shine. Varieties are countless, but worth a special mention are crown prince, butternut and – my favourite – delica, with its dense, intensely sweet, rich and buttery flesh. Always look for bright skin without blemishes and ensure it is firm to the touch. I love a pie – they are so self-contained and jammed with flavour. This one has a symphony of autumn ingredients: melting cheese, sweet, nutty squash and garlicky cavolo nero. Plus, you could easily make two and freeze one for later.