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What happens when two festivities collide and history comes alive in one of the world’s most enchanting cities? Pure magic. Immerse yourself in the festive spirit of Geneva in December—for it’s an experience like no other.
Festive decorations in Geneva in December. (IMAGE: NEWS18)
If you visit Geneva in December, you might land on a rainy day when the skies are draped in shades of gray. Or perhaps the beams of a wintry sun, shining in surreal blue skies, would welcome you to the Swiss city renowned for its natural beauty, high quality of life, fine cuisine, and role as a hub of global diplomacy. Rain or shine, gray or blue—one thing’s for certain: there’s never a dull day in Geneva in winter.
Stroll along the dazzling Rue du Rhône, Geneva’s most upmarket shopping street dotted with high-end boutiques, luxury brands, and exclusive shops. Or walk the cobblestone streets winding through Vieille Ville, the old part of the city flanked by historical buildings. Or wander along the lakeside, where a Christmas market comes alive each evening with infectious energy. You’ll find the entire city glowing with a unifying festive spirit radiating from the decorative lights to the eyes of young couples kissing beneath Christmas trees.
There’s more. December in Geneva isn’t just about Christmas—it’s also a celebration of an enduring victory, brought to life each year with customs, costumes, and cauldrons (yes, cauldrons!). And what happens when festive cheer collides with centuries of traditions? Pure winter magic that seamlessly blends past and present in one of the world’s most remarkable cities.
L’Escalade: Past Meets Present
The year was 1602. The Catholic Duke of Savoy had planned a stealthy attack on Geneva, a wealthy and independent Protestant city, for religio-political dominance. Some 2,000 Savoyard men marched along the river Arve at night and assembled just outside the walls of Geneva on the intervening night of December 11 and 12. Everything was going according to plan. Or maybe not.
In the city, a Genevan lady was late at work, stirring a pot of soup as the Duke’s men scaled the stone walls using ladders under the cloak of darkness. Legend has it that she saw the oncoming Savoyard force—and, instead of running away, she tipped the boiling soup from the cauldron on the first soldier that approached her. His shriek and the subsequent chaos alerted the Genevans, who repelled the invaders in a battle that would be etched in history books.
Ask anyone in the city about that dramatic night over four centuries ago, and they’ll talk for hours. Take Emilie, for instance, a guide with Geneva Tourism. She leads visitors through the Old Town, weaving stories of L’Escalade, as the event is famously known. (In French, it means “the climb”.) With a glint in her eyes, Emilie recounts the courage of the soup lady, the bravery of Genevan soldiers, and the challenges the city overcame—not just Savoyard invaders but complacency and misinformation campaigns.
Or consider her colleague, Franc, who celebrates L’Escalade at home with his child by breaking a chocolate cauldron. This tradition honours the legendary soup lady, often identified as Mère Royaume—a middle-aged woman believed to be the wife of a French refugee and potter.
“Every child, from a very young age, is taught about L’Escalade,” Emilie smiles, as a clear December day begins to fade into a glittery evening. Musicians on the pavement strikes up a merry tune, briefly drowning out her voice. She pauses, climbing a steep, cobbled road before continuing with renewed enthusiasm: “The celebrations are usually held over the first two weekends of December. Marathons are organised. Cannons are brought out for the festivities. People wear costumes. And, of course, they break chocolate cauldrons filled with marzipan vegetables.” Then, she sings the Genevan anthem and talks at length about the “songs of L’Escalade“. A group of elderly people in 17th century costumes passes by, sporting a wide grin.
“You know, the Swiss people have not always been so peaceful. Back in the day, they were mercenaries,” she jokes before bidding adieu. Night sets in, covered in festive sights and sounds.
Marmite: The Cauldron Of Culture
Day or night, if you peek through the windows of Genevan chocolate shops during this time of year, the first thing that will catch your eye is the cauldrons (or marmites, as they’re called in French). These cauldrons, displaying the Genevan flag, an axe and a ladder, commemorate L’Escalade and are on sale. With the Geneva Choco Pass, you can not only sample them but also try your hand at making—and breaking—them. The Choco Pass gives visitors access to family-run, artisanal shops, where they can learn about the craft of chocolate-making. As a sweet ending, they also receive a cute packet of melt-in-your-mouth Swiss chocolates.
If you end up with a Choco Pass at La Bonbonnière—an artisanal chocolate-maker that has been operating for little over a century—chances are there that you would bump into Mathias. A young Swiss of German descent, Mathias is an expert who takes enthusiasts on a journey through the craft of chocolate-making. “This is how a marzipan cauliflower would be made,” he says, displaying his fine skills, “And that’s how you make a broccoli.”
The excitement in his voice is unmistakable as he recaps the story of L’Escalade. He shows learners how to use molten chocolate as glue to arrange solid chocolate pieces into a cauldron, and adds the finishing touches with a brush to create a rugged look. As his class—rich in both theoretical and practical lessons—gets over, Mathias packs the newly made cauldrons, gives them to their creators and waves a goodbye with a warm smile.
Say Cheese At Christmas Market
As the sun sinks below the horizon and the mercury dips—sometimes to subzero depths—a bustling crowd gathers at the city’s famed Christmas market by Lake Geneva, just beyond the iconic flower clock. Shops selling Swiss cheese abound, interspersed with stalls offering hot cups of spiced Glühwein, or mulled wine. Decorative lights add a warm sparkle to the scene, giving it a fairyland glow. Children laugh at play areas, spreading joy in the air. Spontaneous festivities unfold at just the right pace—not rushed, not sluggish. As Franc from Geneva Tourism puts it, this is one of the finest Christmas markets in Europe—and it certainly lives up to the reputation.
Tucked away in corners, cosy chalets serve the famous Swiss fondue—a dish of melted cheese and wine, traditionally served warm in a pot over a small stove. During dinnertime, finding a table without a reservation is nearly impossible. Such is the demand. But if you have an appointment, or are extremely lucky, a strong, pungent smell of cheese would greet you the moment you step through the door. A medieval-style decor—straight from a Game of Thrones set—awaits you inside where friends and families share their food. Fondue is enjoyed communally, with diners dipping pieces of bread or boiled potatoes into the bubbling cheese using long-stemmed forks. Each bite feels rich, velvety and warm. Gradually, the smell and the taste of fondue grow on you.
Outside, a band of drummers in red jackets gathers under the starry skies. They start playing; their infectious beats enchant revellers and make them sway in a perfect rhythm. The drummers dance their way from one end of the market to the other. A sea of people joins in their footsteps. Arabic-speaking women in hijab. East Asian tourists. Westerners in long coats. Genevans old and young. More. And more. No crowd control, no whistles. It’s an orderly celebration of life. Of the multicultural city that is Geneva. As the night grows old, drumbeats fade over Lake Geneva. The festive spirit doesn’t. For there’s never a dull day in Geneva in winter.
