PATRICK_LOCQUENEUX
I am old enough to remember when Val d’Isère was the Sloane Rangers’ favourite resort, chock-a-block with chalet girls in pearls and their braying boyfriends. Had Jilly Cooper set one of her 1990s novels in a ski resort, it would probably have been Val d’Isère. In those days, its legendary après-ski scene revolved around institutions like La Folie Douce and Dick’s Tea Bar. Both are still going strong, but – rather like the French Alpine resort itself – they have evolved over the years to cater for changing tastes.
An exploratory walk round the busy village centre reinforces the sense that the average visitor is now more sophisticated and more international (or internationally minded). Thanks to its high-altitude setting, long, snow-sure season and ease of access to over 300 kilometres of slopes in the Espace Killy area, ‘Val’ is a paradise for serious skiers. But there are enough branded boutiques, coffee spots and swanky charcuteries lining its main street to appeal to those who like to enjoy the mountain air at a slower pace.
PATRICK_LOCQUENEUX
PATRICK_LOCQUENEUX
So it is not hard to understand why the French Experimental group seized the opportunity to open a second Alpine outpost (its first is in Verbier) in the former L’Aigle des Neiges hotel, the principal appeal of which was its proximity to the slopes. The central location is obviously still alluring, but unsurprisingly for a hospitality group known for distinctive, design-led hotels and bars, so too are its stylish interiors.
Designer Dorothée Michelzon has set the tone in the Experimental Chalet lobby with the complementary curves of the grained dark wood joinery and the Flintstones-style stone chimneypiece, with logs a-blazing. Outside it may be 2025, but inside the vibe is more than a little 1960s. You half expect to hear Dean Martin crooning, ‘Oh, the weather outside is frightful. But the fire is so delightful.’
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The mid-century nods continue in the L’Aigle d’Or restaurant (where a substantial buffet breakfast is laid out and a mix of brasserie classics and sharing dishes are offered in the evening). The sphere floor lamps could have been fashioned from plank skis and the predominantly navy, brown and cream colour scheme is established by the mix of banquettes and chunky wooden chairs, and framed chequerboard wall hangings. The combination of banquette seating and dark wood details features again in the smaller L’Aiglon. The curvaceous central wood-fired oven gives it a more obviously rustic feel, which suits the menu of Savoyard-cheese-oozing dishes like tartiflette and raclette.
PATRICK_LOCQUENEUX
PATRICK_LOCQUENEUX
There’s nothing particularly revolutionary about the bathroom-wardrobe–bed configuration of the 113 bedrooms (though a penthouse in the works will presumably offer something rather different). But Dorothée has made the most of every inch of space and paid tribute to the mountain setting while avoiding obvious chalet-chic clichés. So the twig handles, rope details and chunky wood framed headboard are balanced by primary-coloured pottery, high-gloss monochrome surfaces and shots of scarlet. The decision to include baths in the well-dressed bathrooms will be much appreciated by guests who like to soak their weary limbs after a day of piste pounding.
Skiing guests will also appreciate the convenience of a basement boot room complete with a Skiset hire service. Next door is the spa, which includes a pool, sauna and steam room and a handful of nicely turned-out treatment rooms.
PATRICK_LOCQUENEUX
PATRICK_LOCQUENEUX
Health and beauty is all very well, but the centre of the après ski action is undoubtedly the hotel’s Experimental Cocktail Club. A DJ spins the decks on Friday and Saturday nights but the mood is mellow. So guests can reminisce about previous trips to Val d’Isère when they danced all night in their ski boots without feeling any pressure to repeat the experience.
Rooms at Experimental Chalet Val d’Isère start at £350 a night, B&B.
